How To Exfoliate Like A Dermatologist This Winter, According To Experts
Enjoy smooth, flake-free skin without irritation by using these expert tips.
Expert consulted: Brian UnderwoodBeauty Director
Moving from Florida to New York quickly taught me one thing about real winters: my skin reacts—fast. Some nights, my city apartment's radiator blasts so high that my back sweats even as the rest of my body feels dehydrated. Is this TMI? Maybe, but despite swapping out my usual body lotions for rich creams, roughness and flakes persists.
It's not me; it's Mother Nature. Cold weather and the resulting indoor heating and low humidity cause skin to lose water faster than it can replenish it, says dermatologist Chelsea Hoffman, MD. As your outer layer dries out, its protective barrier weakens. Not only does that put skin at risk of losing moisture, it will also look dull. And as we age, that issue gets even worse: Research shows that skin loses its radiance in our 30s and continues to decline into our fifties.
Now, I'm a beauty editor, so I know the solution to these problems is exfoliation, which lifts away keratin buildup—a protein that forms the skin’s outer layer—before it sheds, revealing smoother skin, says dermatologist Serena Mraz, MD. It also helps moisturizers absorb more effectively and brightens, adds dermatologist Hadley King, MD.
But the last thing I want to do in winter is disrupt my skin barrier with harsh products or an overzealous technique (that will only make things worse). “Gentle exfoliation is one of the easiest ways to maintain skin comfort and softness,” explains dermatologist Nicole Ruth, DO. That gentle part is key and, after chatting with Dr. Ruth and other dermatologists, I’m convinced that it’s time to adjust my technique for the colder weather. So, I asked them: What is the best way to exfoliate your body during winter? They were happy to share their hacks, which I tested—and can confirm their tips are surprisingly easy to incorporate into a busy routine.
Read on for the pros’ go-to body exfoliants, which start at just $12.
What are the different kinds of exfoliating products?
Before we go any further, it's important to first to understand the two different types of exfoliation.
- Chemical exfoliants are made with exfoliating acids like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)—glycolic and lactic acid are two popular ones—or beta hydroxy acids (BHA) such as salicylic acid. They break down the bonds between dead skin cells to smooth, brighten, and even treat conditions such as keratosis pilaris. The downside is that overuse can cause irritation, especially on compromised winter skin, cautions Dr. Ruth.
- Physical exfoliants like sugar or salt scrubs, mitts, or dry brushes manually whisk away dead skin cells. All of these work instantly, smoothing skin and helping to stimulate circulation, but they carry a higher risk of barrier damage if they’re too abrasive or your too aggresive. Tools like the Tronque Ionic Body Brush or refined scrubs such as the Sothys Relaxing Body Scrub are gentler options when used properly. I'll touch on technique in a bit.
Tronque's all black dry brush isn't just stylish, it uses coarse-bristles to help stimulate blood flow, promote lymphatic drainage, and remove dead skin cells. This splurge-worthy treat earned major snaps from Dr. Ruth and it's easy to use. Brush upward, starting with short, overlapping strokes, before moving onto longer ones. You can also do some circular motions, both left and right.
Which technique is better for exfoliating in winter: chemical or physical exfoliation?
For most people, Dr. Ruth prefers chemical exfoliation because it’s more controlled, and are well-tolerated in the long-term. In addition to lactic and glycolic acids, she's also a fan of urea for tackling a rough, dull complexion and for treating keratosis pilaris (KP). Slather it all over and, with time, you'll notice skin is refined and glowing.
You can reap the benefits of both physical and chemical exfoliation by combining steps. The NERRĀ Exfoliating Body Duo, for example, features a pre-exfoliation cleansing foam that gently loosens dead skin cells and and exfoliating mitt to whisk them away, so you get the best of both worlds. Dr. Ruth's patients who enjoy a physical approach can use a gentle brush, but only with light pressure. Ultimately, the best method is the one that your skin can tolerate and you'll actually commit to using.
Should you exfoliate on dry or wet skin?
Several dermatologists I consulted agree that you should exfoliate after washing your body. Dr. Ruth argues that cleansing removes sweat, oil, and debris so the exfoliant can work directly on the skin, not on a layer of buildup. Massachusetts-based dermatopathologist Gretchen Frieling, MD, adds wet exfoliation provides slip and is gentler, which works well for most people and most scrubs. "Dry exfoliation, like dry brushing, offers a more intense level of exfoliation and can stimulate circulation, but it can be irritating if your skin is sensitive," she says. If you do dry exfoliate, always follow with a soothing moisturizer such as Eucerin Intensive Repair Lotion or Avene XeraCalm AD Lipid-Replenishing Cream.
How often should you exfoliate?
Before covering the beauty industry over nine years ago, I always indulged in the more is more approach. Because of course I need to slather on a large dollop of Nécessaire The Body Exfoliator onto my skin to reap the most luxurious and effective results.
Thankfully, I learned from the pros that my technique isn't necessary and it prevents me from restocking my beauty stash as frequently. "Daily scrubbing is generally too much even with gentle products," says Dr. Ruth. Most people do best with exfoliating up to three times per week, depending on their sensitivity and the strength of the product. "The only time daily exfoliation is appropriate is with ultra-mild chemical formulas intended for everyday use, but even then, I tell patients to listen to their skin," Dr. Ruth adds.
What about super-rough areas?
Spots like your hands, knees, and heels may need a little extra, ahem, elbow grease to get smooth. For the hands and feet, in particular, dermatologist David Bank, MD, recommends reaching for a lotion containing up to 40 percent urea, as it simultaneously exfoliates and hydrates. "If people have dry, thick, dead skin on the hands or feet—particularly in the winter—urea does a really lovely job at getting the dead skin off while pulling in water molecules to replace the moisture," he explains. The best part? You won’t need a prescription for a max-strength urea cream, including this popular Amazon pick. Since it’s so highly concentrated, you only need to use it once a week.
On the thicker skin of your elbows and knees, Dr. Bank says you can go ahead and use a physical exfoliant instead of a chemical one. Loofahs or a scrub containing something like nuts buffs away dead skin.
I've adopted many of these dermatologists' tips and I can tell you, they work. My skin is smoother, softer, and brighter and I haven't experienced any irritation.
Winter, bring it on.
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